"A surfing classic fit to sit beside John Long’s THE BIG DROP (1999) and William Finnegan’s BARBARIAN DAYS (2015)." —Kirkus Reviews (starred review) "Ideal for the surfer fanatic or even the surf-curious... intimate and charged with life... in brief essays, interviews, and rhapsodies, Reiter illuminates surfing’s ancient origins and modern history, especially along this strip of the Atlantic." —Publishers Weekly (editor's pick)